| |
 |
 |
|
|
 |
When you're
shopping for a ring set with more than one stone, the setting becomes
the principal factor in determining the overall shape. Here, the choices
are as varied as ring designers. |
 |
|
|
Whether you're choosing a
diamond solitaire, a ring with a number of stones, or an open-work
lattice ring in which the diamonds flow along the lines of the setting,
the way the stones are held in the setting is an integral part of its
design. |
|
|
|
|
Each setting technique
creates a look that is part of the overall style of the ring. You may
like one ring rather than another simply because of the setting
technique used. |
|
|
|
|
Once you recognize these
differences, you'll be prepared to analyze each ring at a glance and
make a choice based on those elements that best please your taste. |
|
|
 |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
Let's start with
the prong setting, the one most often used to hold a solitaire. Prong
setting puts the emphasis on the stones and not the metal. The purpose
of any setting is to hold the diamonds securely in the mounting and at
the same time allow light to enter the diamonds for maximum brilliance. |
|
|
|
|
This is obviously a delicate
balancing act. The more metal used to hold the diamonds, the more secure
they are; the less metal used, the greater the chance for the diamond to
reflect light. For this reason, platinum is often the metal of choice
for diamond solitaires. |
 |
|
|
|
|
Because platinum is both
dense and strong, very thin wires of it are sufficient to hold the
diamond securely in place. The diamond may be raised high up above the
shank, to give it a larger, more important appearance, with only a
suggestion of metal showing. |
|
|
|
|
In such a
setting, the prongs are attached to the central setting of a ring, known
as the head or basket. Each prong extends upward and outward from the
head, arching over the diamond to form a secure grip. |
|
|
 |
|
|
The ideal prong tapers to a
rounded point. It should be smoothly finished, diminishing any chance of
the prong snagging the threads of your clothes. The prongs should also
be placed at the key points of the stone, typically at four corners or
at four, five or six points evenly spaced around the stone, to offer
security without interfering with the stone's brilliance. |
|
|
The prong setting
can also be found in a few variations. One such variation, called the
V-prong setting, functions on the same basic concept, but it uses
prongs which, when viewed from above, appear to be curved into a
V-shape. The right angle of the wire is cut to allow the corner of the
gem to rest and be held by the wire. |
|
|
|
|
Another variation on the prong setting is called the common prong.
Here, the metal wire is grooved at the top, and is used to hold two
gemstones by their side (girdle). This technique is used to give a close
side-by-side gemstone relationship without the metallic interference of
too many prongs. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
If the flush setting is
subtle, the bezel setting is its bolder sister. A bezel is a collar of
precious metal that wraps around the diamond. |
 |
|
|
|
|
The bezel is attached to the
top of the ring and stands up above it, adding height and another
dimension to the setting. Although solid bezels have a very traditional
look, the bezel may be 'split' into two sections, arcing around just
part of the diamond. This is called a half bezel. |
|
|
|
|
This simple change suddenly opens up the setting and gives it a totally
modern look. The technique may also be used on a fancy cut diamond --
with an arc of precious metal around the wide curve of a pear shape and
another, V-shaped section of precious metal embracing the narrow end. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
Channel setting
is also used to set round diamonds. Channel setting offers a sleek,
elegant appearance, though the end result is a very different look. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Setting round diamonds into
channels leaves small spaces closest to the metal bars of the channel.
By choosing round diamonds, the designer creates a clean line of stones,
yet one with greater brilliance than is possible with baguettes. This
also offers a less restrained look, and may be more suitable when a ring
has a round center stone. |
|
|
|
|
Channel setting
is also used when there is no center stone at all. The placement of
baguettes around an entire band is a beautiful choice for a wedding
band, one that goes well with a matching ring set with a diamond
solitaire. |
|
|
|
|
Channel setting protects the
diamonds extremely well. None of the edges are exposed, and so they are
not subject to hard knocks or general wear and tear. |
 |
|
|
|
|
A variation of the channel
set is called the bar channel. Here, the metal plates rise to top level
of the stone, and so are visible between the stones. This gives a
slightly different visual effect, and can be very striking if the
contrast between the metal and the stone is significant. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
When the surface
of a ring appears to be covered with tiny diamonds, the technique is
called Pavé which means paved. It's an apt name because the surface
looks a bit like a very pretty street paved with cobblestones. |
|
|
 |
|
|
Tiny diamonds are placed in
small holes that have been drilled out of the ring shank. On a band that
does not taper across the top, each diamond should be exactly the same
size. The diamonds are placed in rows, but in such a way that they fill
as much of the space of the surface as is possible without actual
touching. The more precisely cut the diamonds, the better the final
appearance of the ring. |
|
|
|
|
Each tiny
diamond, weighing just a few points, is fully cut with 58 facets. Though
small in size, each stone contributes to the overall, shimmering look of
the design. After it is positioned in its hole, tiny bits of metal from
the surface of the shank are pushed over the edge of the diamond,
forming tiny beads to hold the stone in place. |
|
|
|
|
Pavé is a
demanding technique that is most successfully accomplished in the hands
of a patient and extremely talented jeweler. |
|
|
|
|
The cost of a
Pave-set diamond ring is in the hand setting of the diamonds; as such,
it is often much more a determinant of price than the cost of the
diamonds and the gold. To evaluate a ring that is Pavé set, look at the
overall design. Are the diamonds laid out in such a way that the entire
surface of the ring looks like a glittering carpet of gems? That's the
sign of a well-designed and well-made ring. |
|
|
|
|
If a section of
the ring is Pavé-set, with certain areas tapering to a point, the
diamonds should diminish in size as the Pavé area narrows. This requires
the most precise selection of diamonds. |
|
|
|
|
All of these
elements add to the time needed to make a ring, and -- as the saying
goes -- time is money. The value of a Pavé-set ring is not as obvious as
one set with a major solitaire; but when you appreciate the work needed
to produce one, you'll also appreciate a fair price when you see it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
The cluster setting is
another variation on the theme of choosing a ring with a number of
smaller diamonds. There are cluster rings with the stones arranged in
the form of a stylized flower, or those done as an abstract arrangement
of stones. |
|
|
|
|
Cluster rings are usually
multi-level, with considerable height above the hand. The arrangement of
stones can be quite open and airy looking, or it may be more tightly
arranged. The choice is a matter of taste, but the shape of the finger
can also play a role in making that choice. |
|
|
|
|
Remember that the openwork
design lengthens the look of the finger and the hand, while the more
closed design draws the eye toward the hand. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
The same beading technique
may be used on a ring in which the diamonds are spaced slightly apart.
In this instance the gold work is much more of a statement and a design
element. |
|
|
|
|
These beads, larger and more
prominent, may be engraved or decorated. The diamonds may also be
slightly larger in size. By varying the size of the stones and the size
of the beadwork, the designer creates a totally different look. |
|
|
|
|
Consider the impact you want
your ring to make. Are you looking for the dazzling glitter of tightly
set Pavé -- or the more decorative look of bead-set, larger diamonds?
Both are beautiful, and the choice is yours. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
The flush setting is one of
the subtlest diamond-setting techniques. Stones are sunk into the
mounting until they are nearly level or flush with the surface. Only the
table of the stone and a bit of the upper pavilion facets show. |
|
|
|
|
This technique seems to go
against everything we know about diamonds in relation to light, but it's
become quite a popular setting. It's a very subtle look, and one that
appeals to the woman who likes the idea of tiny, glittering bits of
light twinkling like stars in the sky. |
|
|
|
|
The flush setting is also
used for larger stones, offering great protection and a modern look.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
One of the classic
multi-stone ring designs, the ballerina, derives its beauty from the
placement of tapered baguettes which flow around a center stone to form
a 'tutu', that short flared skirt worn by ballet dancers. There are
ballerina rings in which baguettes are set in an undulating curve that
literally emulates the tutu skirt of a dancer. |
|
|
|
|
Each of the small diamonds
may be held in prong settings, which give the slender rectangular
diamonds the maximum chance to sparkle. The ballerina ring looks best on
an average or larger-than-average hand. Like many multi-stone rings, it
rises above the hand and has considerable dimension. For this reason it
could overwhelm a small hand, so be advised. |
|
|
|
|
